An awkward geranium aroma mars this firm and concentrated wine. It's dry and tannic, with a solid edge akin to black currant skin. The fruit is well hidden at this stage.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.