The wine has the character of a perfumed Moscatel from Setúbal, but is in fact from Fernão Pires. It has a rich—never heavy—feel to it, flavors of caramel and smokiness from wood aging. Consider this as an apéritif, rather than as a dessert wine.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.