The wine comes from Aveleda's latest purchase, a vineyard in Bairrada region. Made under the supervision of Bordeaux winemaker Denis Dubourdieu, it strives to combine the wild dark acidity, black fruit and wood flavors of Portugal with the more restrained elegance of Bordeaux. At this stage, the combination needs time to work—maybe three or four years would help. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.