A wild, herbal, wood-aged wine, its acidity a fine foil to the richly perfumed fruit. Pears and sweet melon come together with the toast of the wood. At this stage, the wood dominates and needs a year to soften—then the result will be impressively food-friendly.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.