The Jaen grape is specific to the Dão region of central Portugal, where it can produce dense wines with enormous color. This 2009, still surprisingly young for the variety, is dark, concentrated and generous, with sweet black plum notes balanced by hints of oak and lively acidity. This wine is worth holding onto. Drink after 2015.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.