The freshness of Arinto certainly gives this wine an attractive lift. But there is also something concocted here, a taste of candies and fruit drops that jars. This may be something to do with the final sweet aftertaste. Perhaps a curiosity.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.