This property, close to Estremoz, is run by the Rothschilds of Château Lafite in Bordeaux. They have gone for Bordeaux elegance, with dark purple fruitsmingled with some stalky dry tannins. But some of the richness and softness of the Alentejo has been lost. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.