Bottled unfiltered, Noval's LBV is dry in style, with concentrated fruit. With the fruit quality, it should be great, but it is spoiled by the brandy, which is too prominent, and by a layer of lean tannins. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.