Solid and dry, the wine is sustained by its rich tannins and earthy character. Rooted in the tough soils of the northeast, it's always going to be firm. Give it until 2015 to soften a little.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.