Vallado's simplest wine is all big, black, crisp fruit leaping out of the glass. While it is not light, it certainly has a lilt and freshness to it, despite the dry tannins which underlie the flavors. Herbs and spices add to the pleasure.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.