From old vines and with 17 months' wood aging, this is a smoothly ripe wine, the structure softened out, giving dusty tannins, great ripe black plum fruits and balancing acidity. It could be drunk now, but for the super-ripe fruit to meld even better, give it a year.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.