The power of this wine is palpable. Great swathes of rich berry fruits roll around the palate with a not-too-sweet juicy acidity. It is, of course, young, powered by tannins, sweet plum juice and an intensely ripe structure. It needs many years, so don't drink before 2030.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.