After the success of the varietal wines from this producer, this is something of a disappointment. Despite the attractive dried-fruit aromas, the palate is overripe and jammy, with acidity and sweetness in conflict. It is pleasant enough but lacks structure. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.