Like the Tinta Roriz from the same producer, this wine is only produced in years that are good to the Dão. The grapes are selected before fermentation and aging for 11 months in French oak. The result is spicy and dusty, with big, juicy black fruit and layers of dryness and pepper. The spicy wood element gives complexity but does not dominate. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.