Smoke and chocolate flavors are overlain by toast flavors that make this as much table wine as Port. It is dry and firm, the fruit a much lesser component than the other flavors.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.