In the mouth, chewy tannins, stewy blueberries, ink and a ripple of caramel run into dark fruit, char, chalk and a green-herb twinge on the back end. One whiff of its blackberry, blueberry and sinus-clearing black peppery bouquet and you'll know what people mean when they call wines “black beauties.” It is brooding, chalky and has loads of tannin; a fellow taster compared it to a young Barolo. With that in mind, consider aging it as you would its Italian counterpart. As it is now, it will be too big for most palates to handle. —D.M.