It seems perverse to plant Gewürztraminer in the Douro and this wine is as much a curiosity as it is attractively perfumed. Showing all the hallmarks of the grape, the palate carries flavors of lychee and rosewater, although it all seems muted. The acidity does give a final lift.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.