Winemaker Ryan Deovlet isn't afraid of prominent oak, so this comes on with a luscious butterscotch nose, and it immediately smells like it will be a silky wine. It is, with accents of vanilla and a touch of bitterness, but the overriding flavor is smokiness, reminiscent of the rustic Mexican liquor, Mezcal. This could easily handle pork carnitas.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: email@example.com.