Very masculine, and not for the weak-hearted, this Zin is a roller coaster ride from sweetness to dryness, from big to bigger. Baking spices coat sweet blueberry and red-berry aromas on the nose. The wine's a little hot and dry on the palate thanks to its hefty tannins, but the black plum-mixed berry-molasses profile offers plenty of flavor to get you through the rough spots. Medium-long and dry on the finish, it finishes with more of the above, plus espresso and bitter chocolate. —D.M.