This too-powerful, wood-aged wine is impressive but has lost fruitiness in the search for richness. Strong spice and concentrated texture show up front, along with yellow fruits. A toasty character still dominates. The wine needs to smooth its bumps out, so drink from 2016.
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European Editor, Reviews wines from Portugal and France
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.