This is not just a late harvest wine, because there are definite dry flavors of botrytis grapes. While the obvious spice of the Gewürztraminer is subdued by the richness and sweetness, it still has all the fat, opulent character of the grape. It almost certainly needs to age, to bring the powerful botrytis character into balance with the wine's structure; in 5–6 years, it will be impressive.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.