Robert Mondavi 2010 To Kalon Vineyard I Block Fumé Blanc (Oakville)

It's interesting and a little odd that this 100% Sauvignon Blanc, from Mondavi's heralded To Kalon's great I Block, already is showing signs of maturity, although it's only about three years old. The reserve To Kalon, released more than a year ago, was fresh and fruity. This wine by contrast is beginning to show mushroom, herb and mineral complexities alongside the citrus fruits. It's a very fine wine, superior in structural integrity and bone dry, but it will separate wine lovers into opposing camps.

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