Rockford 2004 Basket Press Shiraz (Barossa Valley)

This superb wine features elements of cola, smoke and earth, but rising above all is the wonderfully pure raspberry fruit. Delicate in texture, with a long, silky finish, this is almost Burgundian in style, not a huge blockbuster, but a model of elegance and finesse. Drinks well now, but as a recent taste of the '96 showed, these are wines that can age 10 years past the vintage with ease. Joe Czerwinski

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