Appropriately big and burly, full of ripe fruit, rather soft as well as rich. With its yellow fruits, layers of white currants and a powerful wood element, this is a wine that is still knitting together. There is potential here, especially from the underlying acidity. Give it 4–5 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.