With its dry-laid stone walls that look like a dog's teeth, this strangely named vineyard has produced an almost mineral wine, although with rounded sweet fruits and well-integrated acidity. It will need time to develop its full weight.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.