Rich, toasty, mature, this important Champagne is all those things. It's certainly mature for a 1998 vintage, which means it would be delicious to drink now. But the ripeness, allied to the serious acidity and wood structure, do suggest that it's likely to age more.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.