Rutz 1999 Martinelli Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)

. Nice drinking wine, dry and silky, with generous berry and herb flavors and a tasteful touch of fine oak. That said, it's fuller-bodied than you'd expect, given the league it plays in. Seems to lack the delicacy and transparency that cool-weather Pinot typically achieves. —S.H.

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