Sable Ridge 1999 Petite Sirah (Russian River Valley)

It's a crying shame California doesn't get serious about Petite Sirah because this wine shows just how good it can be. It's got Cabernet's full-bodied character, Zinfandel's spicy fruit, the airy, weightless quality of Pinot Noir, and Syrah's smoky, notes. Add it up and it makes for one tasty if slightly savage wine. —S.H.

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