San Juan Vineyards 2004 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Gorge (OR))

Celilo grows some of the most distinctive and eagerly sought-after Chardonnay in Washington, and this little-known producer does a stand-up job with the fruit. Gorgeously etched with bright lime tones around fresh apple/pear fruit; good concentration, balance and length in a subtle style that shows the minerality to full advantage. Paul Gregutt

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