This is a dark, dry and tannic wine, even at the age of five-plus years. It even shows some austerity, with a cloak of astringency. Nearly all Syrah, it has a massive core of blackberry jam, licorice, bacon and sandalwood, with a pleasantly funky note of what seems like brettanomyces. A drop of Viognier lends crisp acidity to this wonderfully rich wine. Now–2013.