Going through a tough patch, with the primary fruit beginning to fall out and drier, earthier notes marching in. The grapes come from the cool climate vineyards of Bien Nacido and Watch Hill, and the wine shows consequent dryness and acidity. A year or two ago, blackberries would have overwhelmed. Now, they're drying out, permitting charred meat, mushroom and herb notes to co-star. Drink up.