Santa Barbara Winery 2011 Joughlin Vineyard Lagrein (Santa Ynez Valley)

Nearly opaque in darkness, this extremely rare wine grape, originally from Italy's Alto Adige, delivers aromas of charred and juicy roasted game, blackberry-mint syrup and balsamic figs. It's not quite so showy on the palate at first, but then a violety, blueberry and rose petal character emerges, along with Earl Grey tea elements and a decently grippy tannic structure. It's quite intriguing. Matt Kettmann

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