From a vineyard planted in 1981 in the hills above what became Silicon Valley, this shows soy sauce, sesame, black olive, dill, beef jerky and the darkest of black fruits on the nose. The palate continues the Asian flavor theme, with teriyaki, Chinese five spice and hoisin sauce as well as blueberry paste, dusty leather and crushed rocks, framed by strong structure and bright acidity. Drink 2017–2027.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.