Sbragia 2004 Cimarossa Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain)

This latest of Sbragia's single-vineyard Cabs shows the winemaker's penchant for ripeness and power. There's nothing subtle about the oak and black currant flavors, which explode in the mouth. But few winemakers in California know better than Ed Sbragia how to draw elegance and subtlety from a wine of this size. Fine now, and should develop for a decade or more.

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