This may be a straightforward Grüner, but there's surprising complexity as well. There's a steely, mineral texture that's almost chewy, as well as a fruitier element. It's a dry, densely structured wine that could age for another year or two. Screwcap.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.