Schug 1999 Heritage Reserve Pinot Noir (Carneros)

This wine, from selected barrel lots, combines the best of riper grapes filled with cherry fruit and leaner ones, with their herbal, cranberry and tomato flavors. The result is complex. Neither sweet nor dry, it tantalizes the palate, and seems to change with every sip. Oak provides some smoky, spicy accents. Editors' Choice. —S.H.

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