From 20-year-old vines, this bottling shows strong cedar, crushed graphite and charred wood on the nose, with a hint of blackened pasilla chile. Pencil shavings play strong on the palate, spicing up the elderberry and black-currant fruit, with pinches of oregano adding depth. The tightly wound tannins are quite sticky.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.