Only a Burgundian ideologue would find anything not to like about this mouth-filling Pinot that captures the essence of Santa Rita Hills. It's as voluptuous as any Pinot in California, offering waves of ripe, fleshy cherries, red currants, licorice and smoky vanilla that just don't stop in palate appeal. For all that, the wine is elegant, silky and refined. Delicious now, although a little tannic, and will benefit from decanting and aging. Bring on the steak.