Round and medium-bodied in the mouth, this Xarel-lo had so much ripe yellow and tropical fruit on the nose that I feared that it would be too sweet in the mouth. This wasn't at all the case. The palate's yellow fruit wore meaty, mushroomy accents that extended into the finish. A very good wine—the kind of white that sommeliers should look to as a food-friendly alternative to Chardonnay. —D.M.