Made in a bone-dry style, this lean sparkler carries a fair amount of SO2, which slowly blows off to reveal a hard, tart, steely wine resembling an ultra brut. It is elegant and austere, best suited to accompany salty appetizers. —P.G.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.