Sektkellerei Christian Madl 2010 Önothek Rosé Zweigelt (Österreichischer Sekt)

A hint of lemon and rhubarb signals freshness on the shy nose. More air reveals the faintest hint of leather and something akin to cherry skin. The palate then adds an almost floral dimension to tart berry fruit and convinces with lovely depth: Autolysis here is almost all texture while tart, bright daisy-fresh fruit manages to be both brisk and mellow. This is unusual and off-piste, with a profound core of pristine fruit that draws you in. Lively foam would never tell you that this is as old as it is. Exemplary. Anne Krebiehl MW