The '98 Klipsun, from a premier vineyard on Red Mountain, is even better than the '97. It has a richness and ripeness in the cherry-flavored fruit, but retains the extra dimensions that Red Mountain soil imparts: flavors of iron, mineral and chalk. It's just a little hot in the finish, but not distractingly so. This is a very cleanly made wine, with no earthiness to it. As with all Seven Hills wines, it's built to age, though fine for near-term enjoyment. Editors' Choice.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.