In 2003 the vineyard was going through some changes, and the vintage, the shift in focus and the winemaker's predilection for early picking seemed to conspire to produce a rather thin, austere wine. It's locked up tight, a bit herbal and lean, not yet revealing itself even with aeration. It's one of those mystery wines that you keep coming back to, waiting for the light to blink on.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.