Seven Hills 2004 Ciel du Cheval Red (Red Mountain)

A classic Bordeaux blend (about 30% each Cab Sauvignon, Cab Franc and Merlot, the rest Petite Verdot) This wine is still locked up tight upon release. There is metallic minerality underpinning the tart, austere fruit, but there are also surprising high notes of brandied cherries, and a sense of depth missing in more ordinary wines. This is definitely a wine to cellar for up to a decade. As always, this is sensitive, detailed winemaking. Paul Gregutt

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