This joint effort from Alyssa Barlow and Fred Williams (son of Williams Selyem's former winemaker-owner, Burt Williams) has some of the most impressive packaging that I've seen all year—though getting through the fancy wax seal takes some doing. Wide, sexy aromas of sweet cocoa and blackberry, plus a little baking flour, lead to anise, oak and more blackberry on the palate. Medium-bodied and silky-smooth in the mouth; the finish waters out a bit, leaving you with a dose of peppery heat and a little mineral. From 125-year-old vines; one to watch in future vintages. —D.M.