Initial whiffs of flint, apple and smoke dissipate, leaving this wine with a shy, closed nose. The palate still carries residual carbon dioxide that gives a little spritz but all that is just window dressing for a powerful and concentrated core. Yes, there is concentrated lemon, both peel and pith, but a stony expanse underneath makes this profound, smoky and compelling. The finish is bone dry, bracing and racy. Lemon echoes long, carrying stony heat in its cooling breeze.

Initial whiffs of flint, apple and smoke dissipate, leaving this wine with a shy, closed nose. The palate still carries residual carbon dioxide that gives a little spritz but all that is just window dressing for a powerful and concentrated core. Yes, there is concentrated lemon, both peel and pith, but a stony expanse underneath makes this profound, smoky and compelling. The finish is bone dry, bracing and racy. Lemon echoes long, carrying stony heat in its cooling breeze.

Initial whiffs of flint, apple and smoke dissipate, leaving this wine with a shy, closed nose. The palate still carries residual carbon dioxide that gives a little spritz but all that is just window dressing for a powerful and concentrated core. Yes, there is concentrated lemon, both peel and pith, but a stony expanse underneath makes this profound, smoky and compelling. The finish is bone dry, bracing and racy. Lemon echoes long, carrying stony heat in its cooling breeze.