Silver Lake 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley (WA))

Best Buy

Coffee, mocha and barbecue-smoke aromas smolder on the nose, and continue on the medium-bodied palate. Tannins are chalky and smooth, but largely obscure the black cherry fruit. Finishes with oak, tobacco, tannin and a burst of sweet black cherries. Very good, but I'm not convinced that aging it any is going to resolve the chalky, powdery tannins. Best Buy. —D.M.

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