With superripe fruit, fat and glossy, with rich white fruits, round, dense and concentrated, this is a wine to ooze into the glass. It is perhaps not very Chablis, but delicious as a fine Chardonnay.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.