There is enticing new wood here, a wine that shows richness to boost the ripe, creamy apple and pear fruits. It has a generous character, to contrast with its core of steely acidity. The finish is more earthy, suggesting the wine still needs time in the bottle.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.