Peter Rosback's old-vine Zin is always dark and dense and unabashedly alcoholic (here, 15.8%). But it is never any better than this. This is Turley without the heat or Portlike flavors. It tastes like the absolute concentrated essence of Zinfandel, with racy, vivid acids, jammy blackberry fruit, and enough new oak to keep it all together.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: email@example.com.